bakuteh at baba
If you happen to be in the vicinity of the Grace Hotel at around 12:15pm on a Thursday, rock in through the heavy wood-and-glass doors, stare up at the high, high ceilings as you walk through the foyer, and hang a right when you hit the clearing. 12:15pm because any later, and the seats are all gone. So we arrive early. I’ll be sitting there, sometimes at a table for two, other times at one for four, or maybe one for six if we’ve managed to all turn up. And I’ll be eating bakuteh.
BaBa serves the bakuteh as a Thursday lunch special (the boys tell me that, at the beginning, they hadn’t figured out the lunch special system and spent a handful of Mondays, Tuesdays & Fridays trekking down and wondering where the hell the bakuteh was). At $9.80, it’s not the cheapest meal, but something about it just feels like home to me.
The quality varies. A few weeks ago, we headed down (only two of us persisted through the rain) and had the best lot ever. The next week, it was ok, and the week after that, somewhere in between the two. I (somewhat embarassingly) get excited when it arrives at the table the colour of cola. Dark golden brown. When it’s lighter, I scoop the dark, sticky soy that comes with into the bowl and swirl.
Where I’m from, in Malaysia, the bakuteh comes with a special rice that has been boiled with garlic and deep fried onions. A little bit bitter, a lot fragrant. Here, the bakuteh is served with chicken rice (sans chicken). Recently, it arrived accompanied by white rice. The boys & I looked around to see if they’d run out, and then glared at the man next to us who was eating chicken rice (albeit with chicken…) *exhales* At about 12:45pm on a Thursday afternoon, you’ll find me sitting in one of the low wooden chairs at BaBa, in the Grace Hotel. My bag will be hanging off of the armrest. My hair will be in a ponytail so I don’t end up eating it. If you do see me, say hi. Because (a) it’s the best mood you’ll find me in all week, and (b) that way, you can have my table.
BaBa Laksa House
“It’s a Malaysian thing” I said, “pork short ribs stewed in a herby broth, big pillows of fried tofu, sometimes chinese mushrooms. And then you get the soup and slosh it over the rice and it’s so good!” I received a couple of dubious looks. “And this is breakfast food?” they asked, thinking that maybe I was mistaken. “It is in Malaysia. We wake up and eat it at like, 7am and drink tea and…” I trailed off. I sounded mad. Oh well.
That was about a year ago. And then, in November, I found myself working with not one, but two Malaysians (!) Ok, a half Malaysian and a Singaporean. But… BUT (!!!) they (a) knew bakuteh and (b) ate it every Thursday for lunch. Sorted.

visit #1: bakuteh
grainy, chickeny rice
visit #2: lighter soup
plain rice, dark & light soy + chilli
Grace Hotel Sydney
Level Ground, Shop G8, 77 York St
Sydney NSW 2000
Ph (02) 9299 5833
It seems like everyone who is, or has ever been, ramen-friendly, has been to Ichiban-Boshi. Located on the top floor of the Galeries Victoria, this little Japanese noodle place is perpetually packed (it does serve other assorted foods, but everyone comes for the noodles). It is also (very conveniently) located right near everything I would ever head into the city for, making the usually difficult “what to eat tonight before …” choice easy for me. 

We surveyed the remnants on our table. Absolute. Carnage. Napkins lay stage left, smeared with stains, crumpled into balls. Bones were scattered across the table – some thoroughly voided of their meat, others discarded. The meat given up on.




When the weather is hot, and the humidity is high, the thought of slaving over a hot stove is somewhat less than appealing. Unless, of course, everyone else is too. And unless that hot stove is sitting in the middle of the table and contains a pot full of boiling stock in which you can dunk whatever you wish. Then it’s just tummy filling fun 





“I haven’t been to yum-cha in a-a-ages!” “Well then, let’s go Saturday.” “Oh. Ok.” This is how lunch plans get made around my place. One moment you have nothing planned for the weekend, and then it’s 11am on a Saturday and everyone’s running around and “Are you ready?” “The queues will get long! Hurry up!” and “I forgot my phone!” before we bundle ourselves into the car and brave the Chatswood traffic. Two will leap out early to get a ticket and the others will circle the ever-full parking lot before joining the first two with a “What number are we?” “What number are they up to?” and an “Oh… so many people!”















