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ormeggio at the spit

June 26, 2013

ormeggio at  the spit

Not even two whole months ago, when the skies were clear and the sun allowed for flippy skirts and open toed heels, the family-of-biters headed North along the winding road towards Manly. We paused at the Spit Bridge, parked in a spot that cost more than it would in the city (for there are no free spots near the Spit these days), and ran across the road towards what looked to be nothing more than a boatshed.

It can be somewhat disconcerting for the first-time visitor, that little trip through the boat salesroom, past the repair shops and the ads for time-shares, but when you hit the other end and catch that first glimpse of the open kitchen (viewed sneakily through the window of the canteen), and then that glorious view of the water that almost laps at the table legs, all discomfort is washed well away.

ormeggio at  the spit

 

The cause for this particular visit was two-fold. The Bean’s birthday, for one. A celebration of a quarter century survived and thriving.

Secondary was the offer of a set priced lunch, offered on Thursdays to Saturdays. For the grand sum of $59, we would be fed an entree, main and dessert with a glass of house wine. (Or, if you are the Big Bite, and not so inclined dessert-ways, $49 for two courses with wine).

We are given the choice of white or red – more specifically, the  2011 Ormeggio Bianco by Pizzini pinot grigio-sauvignon blanc or 2011 Ormeggio Rosso by Pizzini sangiovese-shiraz, both from the King Valley, Victoria (usually $9 / glass).

A glass of juice is proffered as an alternative for the unwilling imbibers, and mother happily accepts.

ling fish baccala - dutch cream potato - crispy polenta

ling fish baccala – dutch cream potato – crispy polenta

tortelli filled with burnt eggplant -spicy pistachio - pyengana cheddar - mint

tortelli filled with burnt eggplant -spicy pistachio – pyengana cheddar – mint

flinders island wallaby battuta - watermelon rind - amaranth - chorizo powder

flinders island wallaby battuta – watermelon rind – amaranth – chorizo powder

Entrees are an exercise in delicate plating, vivid colour and textural surprises. The Bean’s Ling Fish Baccala is creamy with an occasional polenta fuelled crunch and pieces of fish scattered throughout. The tortelli (initially shunned as the “vegetarian offering”) is happily received, a subtle combination of smoke, sharpness and nuttiness.

But I’d like to think that it’s my choice of entree that wins the round – a tumble of flinders island wallby battuta (like a steak tartare, but with wallaby instead of cow). Speckles of toasted amaranth pop in the mouth and crunch between the teeth. Pickled watermelon rind hits the palate with a tart freshness whilst the chorizo powder smooths it out again in a smoky, mellow haze. I savour every last tiny cubed piece.

braised lamb - cauliflower - horseradish - brussel sprouts - broccolini

braised lamb – cauliflower – horseradish – brussel sprouts – broccolini

pink snapper - macadamia - leek - jalapeño -samphire powder

pink snapper – macadamia – leek – jalapeño -samphire powder

We are split down the middle when it comes to mains – half choosing a hearty portion of braised lamb (it is soft and unctuous with a lovely hit of spice and bitterness from the horseradish and brussel sprouts respectively) and the other half choosing pink snapper.

It is quite an odd feeling, being presented with a large plate upon which there is little to see but creamy foam, purple potato crisps and a green powder, but when the blanket is scraped away to reveal a fillet of just-cooked snapper (and when said snapper is brought to the mouth and mulled over for a while), that feeling dissipates and there is nothing to do but sit back, take a sip of wine, and make best attempts to not shovel the rest of the plate down your gullet in one toothy swoop.

“One of each, please!” comes the cry for dessert, and Big Bite hesitates at the offer of a spoon (having previously declared his indifference to having a third course at lunch).

He is, eventually, glad he accepted.

Four spoons descend, muddling carefully plated sweets into muddied messes of foam, soil and cream. I’m particularly enamoured with the toasted rice gelato, whilst the Bean’s favourite hit comes in the form of the tiny tops of caramelised carrot adorning a steamed cake. No-one comes even close to complaining about the decadence of chocolate, piped and soiled and gelato’d on a plate with the tart hit of fresh raspberries to prevent any chance of an overload.

So with bellies full and smears carefully wiped from our faces, we hobble back through the room of boats, wander across the road (empty due to the Spit Bridge’s convenient opening) and float back home on a cloud of sunshine and sugar.

(Which is to say, a car driven by the one person who didn’t drink that afternoon. Because we’re safe like that.)

toasted rice gelato - rice and ricotta cake - earl grey - lemon; amedei tuscan black chocolate - mandarin – cilantro - cocoa

toasted rice gelato – rice and ricotta cake – earl grey – lemon; amedei tuscan black chocolate – mandarin – cilantro – cocoa

carrot - fennel seed ice cream - farro cream - vinegar caramel

carrot – fennel seed ice cream – farro cream – vinegar caramel

Ormeggio at the Spit

D’Albora Marinas, The Spit
Mosman NSW 2088
 t: (02) 9969 4088
e: [email protected]  
Open for Lunch – Thursday to Sunday 12pm-3pm
Open for Dinner – Wed to Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun 6pm-10pm 


  • #1
    Bigbite
    June 26th, 2013

    Who, amongst your followers, can resist a spoon to dig into the dessert?

  • #2
    June 27th, 2013

    I had a taste of these guys at Taste of Sydney and was truly amazed what they had to offer. I’ve been meaning to make the trek and go for a proper lunch or dinner service. You’ve just reminded me to really plan something. Your feed looks so delightful.

  • #3
    June 27th, 2013

    Good value! Stunning presentation, wow that wallaby battuta sounds amazing!

  • #4
    June 28th, 2013

    Thanks for sharing. I saw their set menus and was wondering what they would be like. Very tempted to pay a visit and take up this great little offer.

Shez